Today I am going to show you how I built this modular outfeed table.
I have really been needing a centralized location in the shop to do glue-ups, assemblies, and miscellaneous tasks, as well as, have an outfeed table. Check out the steps below. There is also an accompanying build video that you may refer to.
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Tools Used:
- Bosch 12-Inch Miter Saw
- Ridgid HyperDrive 18v Brushless Brad Nailer
- Makita XPS01PTJ 18V LXT Track Saw Kit
- Makita Guide Rail, 55-Inch
- Makita Guide Rail Connector Kit
- DEWALT DW331K Jig-Saw
- DEWALT DW745 Table Saw
- DEWALT DW7440RS Rolling Saw Stand
- Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System
- DEWALT DCK240C2 20v Lithium Drill Driver/Impact Combo Kit
- DEWALT DCS570B 20V Cordless Circular Saw
- DEWALT DWE6423K Variable Speed Random Orbit Sander
Materials/Supplies:
- Rok Hardware Leveling Feet
- Gourd T-Nut Leg Leveler
- Kreg Blue-Kote #8 Screw x 2″
- Gator Finishing 120 Grit 5″ Sanding Discs
- Gator Finishing 220 Grit 5″ Sanding Discs
- Minwax Polycrylic Water Based Satin
- 2″ x 4″ x 8′ – Lumber (12)
- 4′ x 8′ x 3/4″ Purebond Plywood (1)
- 4′ x 8′ x 1/2″ Purebond Plywood (1)
There are a lot of steps to this project and it may seem a little daunting. Take your time and please reach out to me if you have any questions.
Milling the Lumber
Assembly
Adding in the Support
Topping the Table
The Finishing Touches
Step 1: Milling the Lumber
Measure Table Height
I start by measuring the height of the top of the table saw and then subtract the height of the adjustable feet and an additional ¾” for the plywood top.
Rough Cut Legs
I then take the 4x4s that I will be using for the legs and cut them down to rough length.
Square Up Two Sides
After that, I head on over to the jointer where I will make a few passes to square up two sides of the 4x4s.
Dimension the Legs
Then I take the 4x4s over to the table saw and trim the other two sides down so that I get a final dimension of 3” x 3” on the legs.
Creating the Joinery
Take the four legs over to the miter saw and cut them to final length and get ready to start working on the joinery. Start by marking up the locations where the material will be removed to fit in the top rails of the frame. Use the miter saw to make a bunch of passes and remove the bulk of the material from the legs leaving space in between each pass. Use a hammer to easily knock out the large pieces. Then it’s back to the miter saw to smooth out the cuts and clean up any leftover high spots with a chisel. Follow this same process for the joinery on the lower sections of the legs: multiple cuts on the miter saw, hammer to remove the large pieces, and then back to the miter saw to clean up the cuts.
Trim 2x4s
The next step is to cut down all of the 2×4 material that will be used for the rails, bracing, and joists.
Dimension the 2x4s
Take all of the 2x4s over to the table saw and set the fence to remove ¼” from one side of each 2×4.
Once you trim ¼” from one side of each 2×4, reset the fence to remove ¼” from the other side of the 2×4 so that you are left with a 1 ½” x 3” dimension.
Step 2: Assembly
Assembling the 3 Sides
Front and back assembly begins with attaching the top and bottom rails to one of the legs, while the side assembly includes attaching the top and bottom rails to the other two legs.
Attach the rails to the legs for all 3 sides the same way, by predrilling out the holes for the screws, adding glue to the joints and then attaching with 2” deck screws.
Changing on the Fly
Originally the table was going to be 5′ wide, but it encroached into the center of the shop a bit more than anticipated. Being that floor space is a premium in a one-car garage, the decision was made to decrease the width from 5′ to 4’.
Implementing the Change
This change was easily accomplished because the 3 sides had not been attached yet so all that needed to be done was to take off 12 inches from the top and bottom rail of the front and back pieces with the circular saw.
Front & Side Assembly
Dry fit the front and side sections to ensure a snug fit and then continue with the assembly by pre-drilling, gluing and screwing the sections together with 2” deck screws.
Adding in the Back Section
Repeat the process to attach the back section to the side section.
Long Side Assembly
The last side is the long section that will run along the wall and act as a support for the extension wing of the table saw.
To make sure everything was square, screw one end of the top rail into the leg and then measured out the same distance as the opposing side rail and then glued and screwed the rail to the front leg using 2” deck screws.
Step 3: Adding in the Support
Cutting the Joists
Start out on the miter saw cutting 2x4s to the length that will span the width of the frame and act somewhat as a joist.
Pocket Holes
Drill pocket holes for attaching the joists to the rails.
Attach the Joists
Attach the joists to the rails using 2” screws and used a speed square to make sure everything stays all lined up.
Continue Adding the Joists
Add the two joists that will support the bottom shelf, and then attached the last piece on the top.
More Pocket Holes
Drill pocket holes in the vertical pieces for the front legs of the extension portion.
Attach Front Rails and Feet
Use a speed square to find the center to predrill a hole to accept the small adjustable Teflon feet that will ensure that the table is rock solid.
Assemble the Front Legs
Assemble the left side of the extension wing frame with pocket hole screws and set it aside for now.
Attach the Front Legs
The next step is to attach the front leg to the top rail of the frame using pocket hole screws.
Add the Main Support Feet
The frame is put on its side so that the adjustable feet can be installed to all 4 of the main 3×3 legs.
Move Table Saw Into Place
It’s finally time to move the table saw into position and get the remainder of the frame together.
Extension Wing Support Pieces
After attaching the preassembled left extension section, head over to the miter saw to cut a few support pieces that will span between the left and right sections of the extension table.
Even More Pocket Holes
Then add a few pocket holes to the support pieces.
Attach the Support Pieces
Attach the support pieces to the frame using 2-inch pocket hole screws.
STEP 4: TOPPING THE TABLE
Level the Saw and Table
Make sure that the table saw and frame are level by adjusting the feet of the outfeed table and adding shims, if needed, under the table saw to line everything up.
Add a Top
Finally, it is time to put a top on this beast.
Wrestle a 4×8 sheet of 3/4 inch Purebond plywood onto the frame.
Marking Lines to Trim Top
Mark out the location of the table saw on the plywood so the cuts are accurate and the plywood could drop right over the table saw so there are no gaps.
The good thing about going from a 5-foot to a 4-foot table was that one solid piece of plywood could be used without having to piece together a few different pieces.
I dug through my toolbox and found one of a hundred spare dust collection elbows that don’t fit anything but never returned and used that as a template to match the rounded corners of the table saw.
Cutting the Straight Cuts
The straight cuts can be made with a track saw or circular saw and then finish off the corners with the jigsaw and a chisel.
Pre-Drill for Attaching the Top
Mark out and predrill the locations to attach the plywood top to the frame.
Use 1 5/8″ deck screws to finish attaching the top, no glue should be used in case the top down needs to be replaced down the road.
Ripping the Trim
To make some trim for the short and long side of the table, rip down a 1-inch strip from one side of a 2×4 and then flip the board and repeat the cut on the other side.
Attach the Trim
Glue and nail the trim to the plywood top using 2-inch brad nails.
STEP 5: THE FINISHING TOUCHES
Sand the Top
Sand the top and legs down to 120 grit.
Apply Polycrylic Finish
Apply 3 coats of satin polycrylic, and lightly sand using 220 grit in between coats.
Bottom Shelf
Break out the track saw again to cut a few pieces of ½”Purebond plywood for the bottom shelf.
Notch out the corners on the front and back pieces and attach using 1″ brad nails.
Cut the last piece to fit in between the other two board and finish up by nailing it to the frame.
Final Thoughts
That wraps it up for part one of the outfeed table build. This outfeed table provides a central workplace where you can do glue-ups, assemblies, and of course. use it as for its main purpose as an outfeed for the table saw.
Originally this project was going to have two follow-up projects, but we’ve changed out our table saw and will be building a new and improved outfeed table in 2019.
Remember you can get the Modular Outfeed Table plans for your own workshop build. Let me know if you make it!
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